Friday, April 2, 2010

Mai Chao Valley!

I spent this past week in the gorgeous Mai Chao Valley, about 4 hours outside of Hanoi. In this village, one of the 53 Vietnamese ethnic minorities live - the White Thai people. In efforts to both preserve their culture and tradition and integrate minority groups into the new Vietnamese market economy, the government has made many ethnic minority villages into tourist attraction. Our group questioned the 'commodification' of the minority as a form of increased tourism, and although this is true, I also feel that tourism is a major way these ethnic minorities can still thrive as a people who preserving their culture. There are no official "hotels" here. All visitors stay in the villagers stilted homes. All 34 members of my group slept on the floor of one families home - it was one crazy 5 day sleepover! The first night we arrive to Mai Chao was the first night of Passover, and of course, I seized this opportunity to host one crazy alternative seder in the middle of rice patties. I managed to get hold of three pieces of matzah - which was an adventure with in itself! I called Chabad in Saigon, who told me there is no matzah in Hanoi, but said to call the Israeli embassy, who told me to call a man Gaby, who told me to call a lady, Suzanne - who was leading the Hanoi seder and told me she would give me three pieces of matzah from the box she got from London! These pieces made it with me to Mai Chao, and with some fun songs and the 4 Questions in Vietnamese, I lead an awesome seder for about 20 people in my group. It was really special for me to share this with so many people in my group for their first time, and reflect on why Passover is still relevant to discuss and celebrate today. During the week, we explored the livelihood of the villagers. We learned about the rice seasons and how to manage the patties and saw where the silk products sold to tourists are made. I also went on a beautiful hike into caves and on a bike ride with my room mate Marian to another village. At night, we saw a great traditional dance show, competed in a volley ball game against the locals, and had a bond fire. Being in such a peaceful and beautiful place for the week provided me with the space to reflect and really rejuvenated me to return to Hanoi for one last weekend before leaving for my last stop, Sao Paulo BRAZIL!

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